Review: Kria, Koramangala

KriaKoramangala’s new modern Indian restaurant has made good use of the opening day fruit basket you sent over. The berries were used in sweet focaccia; jackfruit turned into the best seekh kebabs we’ve eaten in a while; apples and raw mangos were beaten into chutneys and sauces, artfully smeared and splattered on dinner plates. 

Approval Seekhing

Kria’s walls are blotted in hues of blues and mustard and the room bears an overall incandescence that makes strangers appear gentler. An extensive wine list – the staff seems pleased as punch to inform us that this can be perused on tablets – makes us wonder if the ‘Biryanchini’ we just ordered is something we made up. It is not, but we’ll get to that later. Drink your wine first. 

Yes, we’re all fatigued by these East-meets-West experiments, but one actually turns out quite well at Kria – jackfruit seekh kebabs. Deceptively meaty with a mildly sweet back note, this dish is a savoury revelation elevated by tangy bell pepper salsa. A root vegetable salad is pops of colour in a bowl, but on the palate we discover that its under-seasoned baby vegetables need a better upbringing. Speaking of bad parenting, Kria’s chicken Biryancini doesn’t turn out quite so well either. In Italian arancini, the risotto rice holds well together because of the cheese. But in the absence of it, we have a crumb-fried ball of greasy biryani rice with a chicken centre that falls apart too easily. 

Deceptively meaty with a mildly sweet back note, the jackfruit seekh is a savoury revelation elevated by tangy bell pepper salsa.

Riga Veda

A large flaky dome made of bread indicates the arrival of our next course. Cradled below it is chicken stew ruined by excessive amounts of coconut oil. Luckily, rigatoni saves our supper with its fragrant tomato sauce and side of fresh greens, although we can’t find the Indian influence in this dishwhich gives us little cause for complain.

The dessert list is a little more refined than your usual gulab jamun lava cake and crème brulee phirni, offering sweet, crispy focaccia topped with fresh berries and butterscotch ice cream. When the cucumber melon tart arrives and you discover it’s too dense, peel the cucumber slices off, and save them in a ziplock bag for the morning-after. Why? Because you know you’re going to submit to a long night spent at Koramangala’s many, many bars, right after dinner at Kria

Getting there: 132, 17th main, 5th Block, Koramangala

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