Review – Keventer’s, Indiranagar

Warning: Getting a cab from the restaurant-choked 12th Main Road in Indiranagar has gotten harder with the crowds thronging Keventer’s – the legendary milkshake outlet from Connaught Place.

On the afternoon we drop in, a speeding white Land Rover suddenly takes a reckless about-turn in front of us because one of its occupants screams: “Did you see the Keventer’s?” In a matter of moments, we are engulfed by passengers alighting from various waywardly parked cars to get their sugar fix.

Bangalore’s Keventer’s sacrifices this stiff-upper-lip swiftness. Two smiling servers, who also double up as milkshake makers, do everything without the inflection of ceremony.

Of The Same Milk

Our companion, who grew up in Delhi, doesn’t approve of these manners. At the original outlet, “this sort of behaviour wouldn’t go unpunished,” he clucks. At the original, one stood politely in line, quickly and clearly articulated one’s order to a surly senior server, and dashed to the next counter to obtain one’s beverage.

Bangalore’s Keventer’s sacrifices this stiff-upper-lip swiftness. Two smiling servers, who also double up as milkshake makers, do everything without the inflection of ceremony. Our mint Oreo crumble and Kit-Kat thick shakes are declared “just like the original,” suggesting our grandparents liked their drinks sweet enough to pull teeth. As for more millennial flavours such as “bubble gum,” we can say only that we tried them so you don’t have to. This particular shake tastes like liquified strawberry Boomer chewing gum.

There’s more shock in store for our Delhi nostalgist when we’re done, and the staff cheerfully encourage us to take the signature Keventer’s glass bottle home. “In Connaught Place they’d hunt you down if you tried to take away the bottle,” he splutters, flabbergasted.

Your editor remembers his own pilgrimages to the CP Keventer’s as an accompaniment to shami kababs from Wenger’s, the other legend on the block. The melting, spicy treat, cut with Keventer’s cold, sleepy sweetness, was always the carrot at the end of traipsing around a Delhi that was itself sleepier and sweeter. Alas, memories: they don’t always travel very well. Not even in an SUV.

Getting there: Keventer’s, 949, 12th Main Road, Indiranagar, call 7204001455. Any flavoured milkshake costs Rs 200 plus taxes.

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