The team of The Clearing House had left a refurbished ice factory in Bombay’s historic Ballard Estate neighbourhood for the rooftop of One MG Mall. Making up for this prosaic exchange is the skyline at Café Felix, airy and just slightly spooky at twilight as the mall below empties of its daytime crowd and readies for the evening.
The name makes us think of cartoon cats and medieval popes, but this Felix is harder to pin down. Glowing under a young moon, the restaurant affords spectacular views of Ulsoor Lake and the city lights, which you can enjoy at tables situated far from each other.
Felix offers bistro-style dining, with an all-day menu that includes eggs, pancakes, burgers, sundaes — in short, all the Sunday mornings you’ve ever longed for. There are, notably, no appetisers. We’re ready to order extra alcohol to fill our stomachs before our server discreetly recommends a pizza to go with cocktails.
It turns out to be a good thing that we didn’t order two of the Vodka Muddle: this drink is overpowered by passion-fruit concentrate that almost spitefully cuts out the vodka and fig in the glass. On the other hand, a ‘Rum N Raisin,’ loaded with cherries and sultanas, is piquant and refreshing, and goes nicely with the silken June breeze and gorgeous Goan sausage pizza, elevated by its crunchy onion toppings.
Felix offers bistro-style dining, with an all-day menu that includes eggs, pancakes, burgers, sundaes — in short, all the Sunday mornings you’ve ever longed for.
From a long list of exciting-looking salads, we start with quinoa and chickpea. Textured with citrus, the salad springs to life in spite of the otherwise staid character of quinoa. Open lamb sliders come stuffed with flavour-some strips of meat and cheese, but they are a small plate by another name.
More joyful is a dish of jerked chicken, which sits atop a fluffy cloud of buttery mash potato and shines luminously in the lake-light, with some help from a soy glaze. Chunky and on the bone, the chicken is a tender, imaginative rendition of a tandoori dish, and will put many an awkward date on course.
Reader, since we know you’ll hem and haw at the dessert list before you pick the gooey chocolate fondant, we did the same. We can safely say this is a good decision: the subtlety of the hazelnut brittle ice cream cuts so beautifully through the dark and molten centre of this cake that it helps close the meal with proper éclat.
Congratulations: both fondant and Felix are a worthy addition to your ‘rooftop romance’ checklist. With an eye on the sundaes and cookie dough skillet, we know we will return alone to slurp up our next meal in peace.
Getting there: Level 5, One MG Mall, Trinity Circle, MG Road, call 08022086644. A meal for two with drinks cost approximately Rs 3650.
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