Review: Bottle Breacher, JP Nagar

South Bangalore’s most staid neighbourhoods gets another pick-me-up. In the last two years we’ve seen Watsons, Brewsky and Southbound thrive in JP Nagar. After Churchill’s, the subject of our last pub reviewit’s now the turn of a smooth, swank new neighbour to move in. Love interest or decoy?

Steve Martini

At Bottle Breacher, the higher you go, the cooler it gets – only literally, for now. A small dance floor on the third floor is yet to open, but an upper level has a large sit-down section and narrow neon terrace with a view of the terrain. The bar’s bluff name belies what’s on the drinks menu: cocktails feature combinations of whisky with fig and chocolate, and wine with coconut water. In spite of our duty to you, reader, we settle for a safe sangria and draught beer. Loaded with fruit, chilled sangria is the perfect beginning to an evening that’s just starting to heat up. The tepid beer, sadly, plays spoilsport at a key moment. 

The tagine chicken with spiced cous cous has a generous serving of chickpeas and burnt garlic

Pleasantly fiery churrusco chicken is presented beautifully with charred corn on cob and bread rolls. Broccoli with Bengali mustard doesn’t bode well for the future of unlikely pairings – the tart mustard doesn’t combine smoothly with the sweetness of the greens, and an unseasoned cheese sauce doesn’t do much to help things along.

What To Order & What Not To

At this point we suspect that this Breacher is a bit of a player: the list of its mains – sliders, pastas sandwiches, etc. – is too long to seem truly well-intentioned. We order the South Bangalore pub fave, thin-crust vegetarian pizza, and decide that JP Nagar can be strung along for a little bit longer: the delicious thin crust is generously topped with bell peppers, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, and is both tangy and crunchy. (If only that beer was colder!) More exciting still is tagine chicken with spiced cous cous. We’re pretty sure it isn’t cooked in an actual tagine, but the chickpeas and burnt garlic are generous enough to allow us a brief daydream of the Maghreb. 

In spite of this, we’re ready to dismiss Bottle Breacher as the Alec Baldwin character in a Nancy Meyers movie – until the arrival of a “baked filter kaapi” in a little steel tumbler truly convinces us that this smooth-talker can speak the local language. Whether the neighbourhood lets Bottle Breacher stick around, we can’t say – but another cup of this is a must before we ourselves hit the road. Happy date night, JP Nagar. 

Getting there: 311, 15th Cross, 5th Phase, JP Nagar, Bangalore, call 9482512009. A meal for two with drinks cost approximately Rs 2330.

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