This neighbourhood tends to be patronised by bandage dresses and pointy oxfords, but with a name like BED, we were rather hoping for a pyjama party. No luck on this count: with its copper-toned chairs, gilded accents, and royal blue décor, this lounge bar could pass for a chamber out of The Tudors, and has a menu whose vastness would probably have pleased Henry VIII.
Already equipped with a liquor license, the top shelf of BED’s golden bar gleams with Monkey’s Shoulder, Belvedere, and Hennessy, old pals we we haven’t seen in a while thanks to the Great License Scare of 2017. (Jack Daniels and Jameson’s sit on the counter like the rejected cousins of single malt that they are.)
For lack of a better phrase, everything about BED is South Delhi posh, which sounds great but usually portends poor eating. The big surprise is that it’s both completely packed with bandage dress types, but also has properly good food and drinks.
A Popcorn Sour is delicious, the sugary taste of caramel popcorn toppings blending well with egg white foam. (Full marks for not asking us if we wanted a ‘veg’ version). Green tea sangria steals the show. Made with Fratelli white, its blend of wine and tea is near-impeccable: not too sweet and very refreshing — perfect for May drunkenness. Perhaps encouraged by our enthusiasm, management also insists we sample an off-menu passionfruit martini, in which the sourness of fruit is able to offset the bitterness of vodka without overpowering it.
The menu ranges from dim sum to pasta – ordinarily a warning sign, but not here. The kitchen is well up to the challenge of duck dumplings in Peking sauce, perfectly steamed and able to keep the duck meat tasting like silk, rather than cotton (the big challenge when you steam this meat). Shanghai chicken dumplings are well-made, but somewhat overpowered by the taste of ginger.
An Asian Maki bowl with Hakka noodles, black bean and oyster sauce is big enough to feed two, but with some practice, this reviewer might have polished off the whole thing. As it is, we’re ready to settle in for a nice little nap in spite of how loud the surroundings are (visually and otherwise) -and that’s before dessert arrives, generously on the house ; a pillow-soft chocolate fondant dish with a dark, gooey centre. The only thing this last course needs is an actual bed for its tasters to fall into. If BED provided pallets in place of the garish décor, we’d be right back for a slumber party with friends – in JUICY velour, even.
Getting there: BED, N-17, second floor, Greater Kailash I. A meal for two with a round of drinks costs Rs 3700.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
This story was contributed by Avantika Mehta, an independent journalist whose work has appeared in the Hindustan Times and Scroll. She is on Twitter and Instagram as bitingfriends.
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