Unfortunately most of Moldova's wineries can only be visited on officially sanctioned tours, and guides can charge like wounded bulls for the privilege of tasting their local plonk in situ. But the wineries have their compensations and delights.
Cricova, north of Chisinau is the starting point for your Moldovan grape crawl. Cricova is completely underground with a labyrinth of subterranean streets all named after wine types, so you can stagger along Cabernet Street before crawling east into Pinot Street.
West of Cricova is Cojusna, which produces the usual array of reds and whites as well as vodka and heavy port wines for the diehard drinkers.

