Once enclosed by a star-shaped wall, Lefkosia's boundaries today are dictated by the UN's Green Line, which makes the city the world's only - and hopefully the last - divided capital. Lefkosia remains a friendly, laid-back place, with good restaurants, museums, and a lively art scene.
A visit here should give you a less touristy view of the country than you'll get if you stick to the coastal towns. The old town, inside the 16th-century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia, with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.
The best of Lefkosia's museums are the Leventis Municipal, which traces the development of the city from prehistoric times; the Dragoman Hadzigeorgakis, which has mediocre exhibits but is housed in a gorgeous 15th-century mansion; and conversely, the Byzantine Museum, which is in the downright ugly Archbishop's Palace but has a superb collection of religious artwork.

